Land's End to John O'Groats; August 2001...contd.

On day nine we set off with a fresh determined resolve. Even the two hour downpour of thundery rain was strangely enjoyable. It wasn't cold and I laughed as I cycled through deserted lanes drenched to the bone, my toes squelching with water. Once the rain stopped we slowly dried off as we pedalled through Brampton; passing into Scotland was a great psychological boost. We arrived at Langholm having completed 60 miles we were buoyed up and keen to keep cycling. So we booked up a B&B 35 miles ahead and continued into the evening soaking up the uplifting scenery of Scotland. The hills followed the contours of the mountains, deer were drinking from the rivers the roads were deserted, it was magical.


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We wanted to stay a night at the Edinburgh festival so we left Tushielaw and made our way to the city. It was only 56 miles, but the traffic in Edinburgh was an unwelcome reminder of mad, stress-ridden drivers. The next day we pushed off deeper in to Scotland, through Dunning and Perth and onwards to Blairgowrie. The warm welcome of scones and jam from the B&B owner was a delight, instead of anonymous fee-paying customers we were fussed over like long lost friends.
 
Day twelve was a lot tougher cycling. I struggled over the Glenshee pass and then discovered when we reached Braemar that some killer hills lay ahead. The lady in the tourist information office paled when we explained where we were heading. "It's mighty steep here, here and here," she pointed to an ordnance survey map that seemed to be shaded brown with thick contours.
We went through Balmoral and tackled the first of these hills, but it was nothing compared to the one at Cock Bridge; this seemed almost vertical. It took me forever, red-faced and panting to push my bike up to the top. We gratefully arrived at Tomintoul to another warm Scottish welcome of cakes, biscuits and a lift to the pub. We'd travelled 66 miles and were further North than I'd ever been before.



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Day thirteen greeted us with a cold, wet, misty rain. It was an eerie, mystical atmosphere crossing the mountains and on to Inverness. I could quite believe in elves, witches and ghosts as we pedalled through this drizzling mist. Despite our oil and mud spattered filth, we were still given a friendly welcome in Inverness. We had only done 53 miles today but we wanted to find a bike shop to mend Stuart's buckling back wheel.
Day fourteen and we spied our first sign to John O'Groats. Despite a late start getting Stu's bike mended we sped along for the rest of the day. Eating up the miles along the lochs and inlets towards Altnahara. For some reason I seemed to get stronger as the evening set in and we made our way through the softly lit yellow moors with peeping purple heather I surged with happiness at the glories of cycling. We had covered 85 miles today and as we settled in our bedroom with a view across Loch Naver I felt both sad and excited that tomorrow would be our last day.

Day fifteen and we had 75 miles to go. The first 25 miles were a dream we seemed to sail alongside the Loch and River Naver up to the North Coast at Bettyshill. Unfortunately the last 55 miles proved to be the toughest conditions of the journey. A strong blustery South Easterly Wind meant that keeping upright, let alone going forwards was a battle. I struggled painfully onwards, buffeted constantly with the gusts; at times I had to check my odometer to confirm that I was moving forwards and not cycling just to stay stationary. We wearily ploughed our way to John O'Groats where the cows mooed a greeting of congratulations. At 7pm we stopped beneath the white sign and got some tourists to take our photo. I was tired, relieved and quietly thrilled. We cracked open a bottle of champagne that Stu had bought in Thurso and toasted our efforts, it had been tough but the 1073 mile journey had been worth it.